Puerto Rico. A truly Caribbean island with a Latin flair. A vibrant mix of Latino, West Indian and American cultures. An island shaped by conquests, battles and conquistadors. Although only the size of the small US state of Connecticut, Puerto Rico boasts a fantastic selection of things to do. The island is surrounded by palm-tree fringed beaches and has an unspoilt centre filled with luscious rainforest. Officially part of the United States but without many of the privileges that come with full statehood, Puerto Rico is unique in more ways than just geopolitics.
Why visit San Juan with kids?
San Juan, the Puerto Rican capital is a bright, bold and cosmopolitan city. It’s also a major stop on most Caribbean cruises. There are so many things to do in San Juan with kids from beaches to forts, from museums to street art tours. It’s well worth allocating a good amount of time in your itinerary to explore the city and its outskirts.
San Juan is a microcosm of the cultures and traditions that make up the history of the island.
San Juan with kids: a vibrant capital city not to miss!
Popular with (mainland) American families, Puerto Rico isn’t a well-known family destination for Europeans. However, we travelled there independently from the UK on Norwegian Air. Even with the high-volume of cruise ship tourists (we were there during peak season), we managed to find peaceful plazas and lots of opportunities to relax.
Even the back streets in Old San Juan are colourful and cobbled!
As we were travelling with a one-year-old and a three-year-old we took things very easy. With lots of long siestas and plenty of time in play parks.
If you’re wondering what to do in San Juan with kids here are our tried-and-tested suggestions.
Things to do in San Juan with kids
Explore the fascinating forts guarding Old San Juan
There are two main forts in Old San Juan: Castillo de San Felipe del Morro (often referred to as Fort El Morro for short) and Castillo San Cristobal.
Nowadays, the forts of Old San Juan aren’t so much guarding the city against invaders as welcoming tourists in. But in the past, the island was a vital strategic base from the 16th through the 18th century as Spain battled with other European powers for colonial control of the region. All three forts are managed by the United States National Park Service.
The forts are about a mile apart and are large so leave plenty of time to explore. Both have huge green open spaces for restless toddlers to run around in. It’s easy to walk (and push a double stroller) between the forts but make sure that you allocate plenty of time – and pitstops.
Both Castillo de San Felipe del Morro (above) and Castillo San Cristobal in San Juan are fantastic for children (and grown-ups) of all ages. The entry ticket gets you in to both forts, unfortunately, we didn’t know this at the time and ended up paying twice!
FAMILY-FRIENDLY TIP: If you’re tired or thirsty when you finally leave the huge grounds of Castillo de San Felipe del Morro, pop inside the nearby Museo de Arte e
Old San Juan: The Colourful Heart of the City
Old San Juan has been settled since the early 1500s when Spanish conquistadors took over the land from the indigenous Taino people. The Spanish built grand houses, attractive plazas and of course, the huge protective forts.
By the late 1940s, Old San Juan was poor, dangerous and in parts derelict. Local politicians and policymakers wanted to knock down the old colonial buildings to make way for sleek new 20th century buildings. Fortunately for us, they didn’t get their way!
This change of plan was all down to an anthropologist called Ricardo Alegría. He argued that the buildings in Old San Juan were of cultural and historical significance. Not only did he prevent the buildings from being demolished but he also helped create a conversation area to help protect the architecture of the city.
As more and more developers began to renovate and modernise old properties, the city began attracting tourists. In 1983, Old San Juan became a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
When’s the best time of day to visit Old San Juan?
Puerto Rico is hot… really, really hot. Definitely, think about exploring the city streets early in the morning or in the late afternoon when it’s cooler.
How to explore the streets of Old San Juan with toddlers and babies?
If you’re on holiday in Puerto with under-threes, there’s no way the little ones are going to manage to wander around the streets for very long (even if the buildings are beautiful and colourful).
We took a double stroller with us (not great on the cobblestones) but fantastic for walking in between the forts. We slipped a baby carrier into the back of the stroller so we could leave the buggy at the entrance of the museums and forts and carry the baby. There is also a hop-on-hop-off trolley service.
Striking Street Art in the Santurce Neighborhood
Early on our last morning, we decided to take a stroll around the colourful Santurce neighbourhood. We took the double stroller and pushed the little ones through the quiet streets pointing out the bright graffiti murals.
This otherwise dull and industrial inner-city area has been covered by flamboyant and dazzling graffiti art. Whilst it was fun doing a self-guided tour (aka a random wander) there were some points when it felt like we’d wandered off into the wrong neighbourhood. On a few residential streets, the atmosphere was slightly hostile. Fortunately, we were left alone probably because we were pushing a giant stroller and looked like muppets! Make sure you do this walk in a group!
If you have a passion for art, check out the Espacio 1414 gallery and the Laboratorio de Artes Binario Design Center, as well as the Museum of Contemporary Art which are all in the same area.
Museo del Nino (Children’s Museum)
What more could you want in a city you’re visiting with children than an awesome, interactive children’s museum?
Museo del Nino doesn’t disappoint with fantastic hands-on activities, great facilities and helpful staff. Best of all, you can hop on board a real American Airlines MD-82, great fun for kids who love flying.
The grounds of the museum are fun-packed with play parks and slides. There are go-karts, paddle boats, a jungle cruise and even a mini zoo with a small trail where you can walk among free-roaming animals. Don’t worry no lions here!
If you’re off to the US Virgin Islands next, check out the fantastic Virgin Islands Children’s Museum in Charlotte Amalie
Relax at one of the city beaches
If you are looking for a beach in San Juan you won’t have to look very hard. It’s a peninsula after all! All beaches in the city are open to the public including those in front of large hotels.
El Escambron Beach (near the Caribe Hilton) and Isla Verde Public Beach are the only beaches in San Juan that have life guards. Both beaches also have lots of amenities including changing rooms and snack bars.
We loved the lovely little Parque del Indio is in the vibrant area of Condado (where we stayed). It’s outside of the city centre but a great spend a quiet morning in San Juan with kids. It’s right the beach and whilst the beach is great to play on, there aren’t many amenities and the waves can be rough. Parque del Indio has a great playground for younger kids. It’s in a quiet residental area and is relatively clean. It’s a great place to spend a few quiet hours away from the tourist crowds.
Sampling yummy innovative food at Miramar Food Truck Park
We stumbled across Miramar Food Trunk Park as it was close to our apartment in Condado. What a great find! Honestly when you’re eating out with kids what more could you want that a hipster food court!?
Everyone could eat different food, Mum and Dad could have a beer, the kids could run around, make a mess and we got to try some pretty stumpicious and innovative foods too. Find it at: 1006 Avenida Juan Ponce de León, San Juan.
Hiking in El Yunque Rainforest with toddlers
El Yunque is a great national park to explore with young children. Imagine pristine rainforest with marked trials and very few dangers (definitely no pumas around here!). Its island setting means that there are fewer predators!
The only tropical rainforest managed by the US Park Service, El Yunque is refreshing easy to explore with two under-threes. There’s a main road (PR-191) that runs right through the park. Within an hour of leaving Old San Juan, you’ll be deep in lush, tropical rainforest.
Make sure you visit the welcoming and informative “El Portal” Visitors Center. A great place to learn about the forest as well as use the bathroom and have a refreshing drink in the cafe.
The great thing about El Yunque is that you can drive to and park at many of the main sites (remember you’re in America!). Some interesting places to stop are Baño Grande, a relaxing man-made pool, Yokahu Tower, a four storey high tower that you climb using a narrow spiral staircase for fantastic views and La Coca Falls a lovely waterfall that you can see from the road.
Make sure you listen out for the coquí frogs who make a sound like Coh-KEE! Click for some great tips on hiking with a toddler in El Yunque.
Glide across bioluminescent water at Laguna Grande
Puerto Rico boasts three examples of one of the world’s rarest ecosystems. Puerto Rico is the best place in the world to see bioluminescence occur. The magical glow-in-the-dark effect happens because millions of microscopic, single-celled organisms called ‘dinoflagellates’ live in the water. In fact, they exist all over the world but here in certain areas of Puerto Rico, the concentrations are so high that when the water is moved (by an oar or a hand) they seem to ‘glow’ creating a magical effect.
If you’re travelling with older children (5+) you really should go and see the bioluminescent water. Our children were to young (and jetlagged) to stay up after dark so instead Rhino and I went on alternate evenings.
Our top tip (from separate experiences) is getting your hands wet! Most tourists on both our boats just sat there – maybe waiting for the bioluminescent algae to form a huge monster and jump out the water at them? Who knows? Be proactive, splash the water. Remember this is nature not a Disney movie.
Many other tourists were kayaking which looked like an amazing way to get up close and personal. Note: you’re not allowed to swim (yes, people still try despite the signs) as this damages the ecosystem and bug spray, sun lotion and perfume can pollute the lagoon. Make sure you book a tour especially in peak season as they are very popular.
Tips for families travelling to San Juan from Europe
Guess what time of year we visited?
Being part of the USA has lots of pros and cons for European visitors. Cons include long immigrant lines and applying for online electronic visas. Pros are that many of us will already have valid ESTA visas.
If you’re arriving from Europe, you will need to join the Alien Line and oh boy can this be long at San Juan International Airport. Be prepared that after a 8-9 hour flight you may need to wait in line with your children for up to an hour! So pack your baby sling and let your toddler bring their Trunki to ride along on.
Top tips for visiting San Juan with kids
There are excellent playgrounds throughout Puerto Rico, including a couple in Old San Juan. The pirate ship playground near Laguna Grande was superb. Our three-year-old was in heaven and even though it was an hour’s drive we went back twice!
There are stray dogs around. Lots of stray dogs. When travelling with children this can be problematic. Zizi will be right up close wanting to pat the ‘doggy’. Er, no, it’s feral. It could have rabies. It might bite. On the other hand, H is scared ****less of dogs (yes, even poodles). If a dog barks at him, he screams. Be cautious and talk to your kids about what to do around stray dogs.
A short and sweet San Juan with kids itinerary
Most cruise ship passengers bustle into San Juan for half-day. This will give you enough time to explore one or both of the forts and have a meander around and possibly a meal in Old San Juan.
As independent travellers, we had the luxury of taking things slowly. Our 3 days San Juan itinerary looked like this:
Day 1: Old San Juan and the Forts; no siesta and early dinner back at the apartment
Day 2: Drive to El Yunque Rainforest (naptime in car!) and on way back stop at Laguna Grande as night falls.
Day 3: Condado Beach (Parque del Indio) and (self-guided) walking tour of Santurce street art. Long siesta. Dinner at Miramar Food Truck Park.
A quick word about Puerto Rico
This gorgeous Hispanic island located between the Virgin Islands and the Dominican Republic is technically part of the Commonwealth of the USA. This means that it is subject to US laws and immigration controls but it denied the rights obtained by full statehood.
The reason I bring this up is that months after our visit, this island nation was devastated by Hurricane Maria. One of the worst storms to hit the Caribbean in living memory. Aid and support from the mainland were not forthcoming and many Puerto Ricans were without electricity for months, their livelihoods destroyed and almost 3000 lost their lives.
All these months later Puerto Rico is still struggling to get back on its feet. A visit to Puerto Rico will not only be an awesome holiday with children but you’ll also be helping this beautiful island and its friendly people start reaping the benefits of tourism again.
Combine a trip to San Juan with kids with a short flight to the Virgin Islands for a Caribbean adventure.
Check out our detailed and inspirational posts on:
Tortola with a Toddler: Affordable Fun and Sun in the British Virgin Islands
8 Amazing St. Thomas Excursions with Kids: US Virgin Islands
A powerful feminist voice in Puerto Rico.
If you’d like to learn more about Latina feminism and feminism in Puerto Rico, I highly recommend exploring the work of Aurora Levins Morales. Below is a short extract from her powerful book ‘Getting Home Alive‘
“There are women who were leaders, who worked night and day, defeated not by foreign policy, but by the sexual politics of solidarity, bitter now, unable to work anywhere near you. How dare you speak of the New Woman! We are your richest resource besides your endurance, and you use us like rags to wrap around your pain.”
Aurora Levins Morales, Getting Home Alive
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