Welcome to Bangkok with young children!

For us, Bangkok with young children was an absolute eye-opener. Our short 48-hour experience in the city opened our eyes about how we travel, why we travel and the choices we make.

We’re urbanites. Eternal city-dwellers. As native Londoners, the beach, the wilderness, tranquillity are exotic. A treat. We’re used to traffic, busyness and crowds on a daily basis. As family travellers, we’ve been to many enormous cities from Kingston, Jamaica to Kuala Lumpur with young children. We worked out schedules and made these big cities work for us (in the case of Kingston staying just outside in Port Royal). But Bangkok was another story altogether…

Separately, both Rhino and I have visited Bangkok as impressionable, young backpackers and been amazed by its charm, intensity and craziness. We had the freedom to wander the enchanting backstreets, the foolhardiness to jump on motorbike taxis and the carefree openness that comes from having no responsibility for any little people. This time, loaded up with a stroller, two young (occasionally feral) children, a ridiculously heavy suitcase – and a city-loathing grandmother, we were in for a shock.

DID YOU KNOW:  In 1932, Thailand was one of the very first countries in Asia to give women the vote. This was only 4 years after the UK government granted all women the right to vote.

If you’re thinking of a trip to Bangkok with young children or you’re planning a trip to Thailand and are wondering whether or not to include Bangkok in your itinerary. Here are a few things that we learnt so you can make the most of your time there.

Bangkok with Young Children Tip #1: Taxis over Tuk-Tuks

Tuk-Tuks, taxis, trains, motorbikes- the traffic in Bangkok is intense and unstoppable. Fondly, remembering our wild backpacker days zipping around on the back of speeding motorbikes we took lots of tuk-tuks in Bangkok. After the first one, it was never our first choice… Fitting three adults and two children in the back of a tuk-tuk took some manoeuvring, a lot of holding on and gave me several mild panic attacks (“Get your arms in” “Arrggghh, we’re going through a red light – again!!” “How can anyone do a U-turn without checking their mirrors??!!”) On top of the erratic driving by many drivers, the over-inflated ‘tourist’ prices and the lack of safety features, tuk-tuks are low-down at exhaust fume level. So, even after a short journey you’ll be coughing and wheezing most of the next day.

Taxis, on the other hand, whilst a lot less adventurous (and more restricted by their size to weave in and out of traffic) are much cheaper (always make sure the meter is on!), have refreshing air-con and most have seat-belts. If you want private transport and have young children, the kind that wave their arms out the side of tuk-tuks, have asthma or you are prone to anxiety, take a taxi. Honestly. Take a taxi.

(We were in Bangkok for such a short amount of time and staying so central that we didn’t use public transport- but many family travel bloggers rave about the Skytrain. Young children find it very cool if a little crowded at times although I hear that many stations have a lot of steps for little legs.)

Bangkok with Young Children Tip #2: Siestas

One of the many things that adults love about travel is ditching the watch and going with the flow. With two under-fives, I holidays could be described as just your daily routine somewhere more interesting. Now the kids are older, they have both ditched napping (arrgghhh…) but due to the heat (35 degrees Celcius, 75% humidity), us frazzled grown-ups decided to introduce the concept of a ‘siesta’. It’s basically a lovely Spanish name for ‘afternoon nap’ but it sounds so much more grown-up. Siesta time had worked well for us at the beach at Ao Nang and Ko Lanta but in Bangkok, the journey to and from the hostel in the middle of the day was a more arduous but totally necessary one.

Siestas are great in Bangkok with young children for the following reasons:

• A mid-afternoon nap gives everyone (little and big) the time to lie-in in an air-conditioned / fan-cooled room for a few hours and relax. (“Don’t want to sleep? Read your Where’s Wally book in bed for a few hours!”) Everyone feels refreshed afterwards.
• Siesta time works if you get up earlier and go to bed later (four-year-olds do not want siestas if they get to lie in until 8am – just ask H!) You have to be tired to sleep in the daytime if you don’t usually. Waking up early means you can be speedy and get to famous tourist attractions, like the Grand Palace or Wat Pho, when they open and before the heat and the busloads of package holiday tourists.

• Siestas give everyone time to process, reflect and relax. It sounds a little deep but really it means that big, busy cities are overwhelming for young children. The loud sounds, strange smells, busyness and strangeness is a lot for little ones to process. Time in a cool, ‘safe’ environment with their favourite toy can calm them down, prevent tantrums and help them reconnect with everyone else in the family.
• For us grown-ups, not only do we get a nap (bliss!) but also we get a few hours to reflect on the day so far (what’s working, what’s not, who’s in a good mood, who’s on the cusp of a major melt-down), skim the guidebook, jot down somewhere for dinner and freshen up with a cool shower.
• Finally, a little snooze in the day also means kids can stay out later. You can eat dinner at a ‘normal’ time, not at 5.30pm, experience after-dark in the city (think the bright lights of Khao San Road).

Summary: Siestas rock!!!

Bangkok with Young Children Tip #3: Schedule like a Pro

If you’ve read our 10 days in Southern Thailand itinerary, you’ll see that our time in Bangkok was not filled with kid-friendly activities. Yes, Bangkok is home to Kidzania, a zoo and indoor softplay areas galore… But we only had a very limited amount of time and an intrepid grandmother to entertain so we focused on activities for everyone. I don’t feel like we scheduled very well that why I’ve added it as a tip so that you don’t make the same mistake.

Bangkok is gigantic. Attractions get very crowded. Walking even short distances can leave children exhausted and everyone wiping sweat out of their eyes. Think it through. Plan it out. Basically, eat your guidebook before you leave the hotel room.

Bangkok with Young Children Tip #4: Eat like a local, including the kids

Whilst dinner on Susie Walking Street next to Khao San Road brings back lots of backpacker memories, it is hardly a glowing example of the delights of Thai cuisine. We stayed in the Old City and by the early evening every pavement was taken over by food stalls and tables and chairs as it seemed the whole population of Bangkok ate out. Most of them busy and selling delicious smelling curries, soups and stir-fries.

It was in Bangkok rather than the touristy beach bars down South (where the children dined on French fries and fish almost every meal) that our kids began eating Thai-style food. Ok, when I say Thai-style I’m being very generous, but they started eating stir-fried vegetables, steamed rice and fried chicken or noodles with pork or prawns. They might be bland choices but they made me ever so proud by adapting in this way. Bonus – the food is tastier, cheaper and usually healthier too.

Bangkok with Young Children Tip #5: Wander (but watch where you step!)

Staying in the Old City meant that, within seconds of leaving our hotel, we were wandering between grand Wats (temples), tiny sidestreets filled with jewellery-making workshops from a forgotten age and murky canals teeming with daily life. These street scenes, noises and smells define the city and you need to walk at street level to appreciate them. However, make sure you watch out for crazy driving (down even the smallest lane), huge kerbs and perilous drain covers.

We had a lovely evening stroll around Saranrom Park where the locals were jogging and playing outdoor table tennis. Then, the following morning we meandered around the Flower Market – a fascinating array of colours, scents and the controlled chaos that forms part of everyday life in the market. Tip: If you’re travelling with a toddler (like we were) using the stroller is quite tricky on the uneven pavements (where they exist) so bring a good sling.

Bangkok with Young Children Tip #6: Do whatever you can to make it a good experience for everyone.

Yep, straight up, I’m talking about bribery, distractions, extra ice-creams, DVD players at dinner. If like us, you have a limited amount of time in Bangkok, let go of your ‘proper parenting rulebook’ a little and adapt. If it makes things easier, do it.

Bangkok with Young Children Tip #7: Choose the right accommodation

It’s difficult to find good city accommodation with little ones. Most budget options are hostels or monotone hotels offering small double rooms. Whilst friendly on the wallet, they don’t usually offer a calming break from the madness of a huge city like Bangkok. Due to the heat and not wanting to spend much of our trip in traffic, we chose our option based on location and because the hotel seemed to offer good family rooms.  And we were in luck, making our stay in Bangkok much more manageable and pleasant. To see where we stayed and why we liked it so much, read our itinerary including Bangkok here.

Finally… Not a tip but an observation

Thai people generally LOVE children. I don’t mean that lightly. Even in a busy city like Bangkok, waiters, receptionists, old grandmothers passing by, tuk-tuk drivers will shower your children with admiration and fondness. They will get pats, smiles, waves, special extras. People adore children and it’s a wonderful thing to see as a parent. The openness and friendliness of the Thai people makes Bangkok with young children a very enjoyable experience.

Zizi, the outgoing, chatterbox that she is, loves all the attention and constantly has people taking her photo (she must average 5-10 photos a day). Unlike in London where children are mostly ignored, Thailand welcomes children. Note: the only other part of the world where our children have had so much attention so far is in Northern (Turkish) Cyprus.

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Welcome to the World for a Girl community. Please share your own ideas and thoughts about Bangkok with young children. Do you agree with our tips or do you have others to add? Did you have a similar experience? What recommendations can you make for Bangkok with young children?