Hanoi with a Toddler: 15 Tips to make it less stressful

KirstyDestinations19 Comments

flowerseller hanoi old town

Do you have a babe in arms? Do you have keen, enthusiastic and sensible primary school aged children? Do you have teenagers interested everything exotic? Are you a group of adults?  If you answered ‘Yes’ to any of or all of these questions then let me just wax lyrical about Hanoi, Vietnam.

An absolute treat of a Vietnamese City – Hanoi has charm even in its crevices and cracks. I would be very shocked to hear of anyone who visited Northern Vietnam and skipped Hanoi. You’ve missed a gem! Oozing with culture, delicious food and a vibrant and appealing everyday life to watch unfold.

hanoi street life women selling flowers

Hanoi Street Life

Even with a baby in a carrier or sling, you can carve out a great family visit to Hanoi. Leave the stroller at home and you can wander, meander and explore until your adult hearts are content.  Indulge your senses at outdoor cafes and restaurants and maybe sneak in some great boutique shopping or a massage during naptime.

BUT… (and it’s a huge BUT!)

Do you have a toddler/pre-schooler? Do you have more than one under-five? (we’re talking energetic, tantrum-throwing, runaway, too big for a sling kind of tots here).

Mmm… you do? OK…

Here’s my rather controversial advice: skip Hanoi altogether or limit your stay severely (beautiful city, that it is). Read my other blog on why Hanoi with a toddler can be very challenging.  But I love Hanoi…  And I can’t really recommend staying away because it’s an amazing, engaging, vibrant, exciting and hugely memorable city.

So, don’t worry if you’re desperate to visit Hanoi with a toddler (it wouldn’t be a Vietnam holiday without Hanoi, would it?). If you just can’t leave your terrible toddler at home, I’ve put together some family-friendly advice to help you have a successful visit to Hanoi with a toddler.

toddler hanoi vietnam

Zizi ‘posing’ at the temple on the island in Hoan Kiem Lake

Interested in a women’s view of life in modern Vietnam, check out the superb Vietnamese Women’s Museum in central Hanoi. Read our review here.

Tips for Hanoi with a Toddler

So if you really want to go to Hanoi with a toddler (I don’t blame you, it’s great) here are some top family travel tips to help you plan a great visit with toddlers. Much of the advice stems solving mistakes that we made so you have our word that these are useful tips! But be warned, Hanoi with a toddler can be stressful at times (read here to find out what we found hard).

  • Limit to your stay to the bare minimum. 1-2 days tops. Hanoi Old Town is noisy, busy and full-on in a way that makes central New York City look like a sleepy little town. Toddlers will find this hard. As parents, you will find this hard too. Limit your stay and get out into the countryside either north to Sapa or south to Ninh Binh where you can all enjoy some space, rest and tranquillity.
View from hill in Nimh Binh, Vietnam

Ninh Binh is a tranquil, relaxing place – perfect for toddlers chillout time

  • Use the electric bus. There’s a great little electric bus that you can hire from the north shore of Hoan Kiem Lake. It’s 300,000 VND for a private hour-long tour. The kids loved gliding through the crazy traffic in this cool vehicle. We stopped at a couple of the stops and skipped others by choice. The tour was a great, easy introduction to Hanoi Old Town and a hit with the kids who liked to spot which shops were on which street.
toy shop hanoi old town

Toy shop street- a favourite with our kids!

  • Hoan Kiem Lake – buy ice-creams, bubble wands and snacks as you wander around this beautiful, iconic lake in the heart of Hanoi. Cross the famous wooden red bridge, pose for awesome photos and enjoy being in the ‘fresh’ air. If your little ones are night-owls (or just jet-lagged) nearby traffic is banned on Friday and Saturday evenings after 7 pm making a moonlight stroll even more pleasant.
Hoan Kiem Lake Hanoi

Hoan Kiem Lake: An oasis in busy, bustling Hanoi

toddler running hanoi bridge

H legging it across the bridge at Hoan Kiem Lake, Hanoi

  • Stay outside of the Old Town find a hotel or apartment near Hoan Kiem Lake or in the French Quarter. There are wider pavements, (a bit) less traffic, lots of nice restaurants and the Old Town is still only minutes away by taxi or rickshaw.
  • Cha Ca. My new favourite Vietnamese dish is Cha Ca (I can’t believe I have never tried it before!). Not only is it delicious but, because you assemble it yourself at the table, it’s a great ‘deconstructed’ meal to share with toddlers. A bit of fish, some noodles, some peanuts and lots of dill– the kids were very happy and so was I. Although I tried it in a couple of places, our experience at the local’s favourite Cha Ca Thang Long was brilliant. They serve nothing but Cha Ca and well, they don’t need to do anything else. Just make sure you get there early as the locals flock to the place.
Cha ca Hanoi food

Cha Ca my new favourite Vietnamese dish!

  • Cheap ice-cream sundaes – for breaking the day up. There are hundreds of cafes selling yummy, super strong Vietnamese coffees in Hanoi. Most of the chains and larger cafes also sell ice-creams. Perfect if you’re in Hanoi with a toddler – everyone is a winner and I got my daily caffeine fix!
boys eating icecream sundae Hanoi

Rhino and H enjoying a HUGE ice-cream sundae

  • Visit the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum Complex. Ok, this sounds weird… No, we’re not suggesting that you queue up with your toddler for hours to go and ogle at the preserved body of a dead politician. But the grounds are as impressive as the mausoleum itself. There’s SPACE to run around and a short Changing of the Guards ceremony to watch (and practice marching along to).
Changing of the Guards, Hanoi

The Changing of the Guards ceremony at the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, Hanoi. Great fun to watch with toddlers!

toddler Ho Chi Minh Complex Hanoi

There’s lots of space for energetic toddlers to run around at the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum Complex, Hanoi

  • Thong Nhat Park (Lenin Park) – if you’re desperate for green space in Hanoi with a toddler, you can walk out of town and visit this rather sad, dilapidated park. It’s big and green but the play equipment is falling apart. There is a really cool house of mirrors you can visit for a small fee right in the centre. The never-ending reflections kept us entertained for ages.
toddler playground Hanoi

The playground in Lenin Park, Hanoi wasn’t the safest…

toddler in house of mirrors, Hanoi

…but the House of Mirrors (Lenin Park, Hanoi) was great fun for a toddler!

  • The Railway. Lots of family travel bloggers recommend walking the railway tracks in Hanoi. When there are no trains running, you can walk the tracks and catch fascinating glimpses into the houses and shops that back on to the tracks. If you’re in Hanoi with a toddler then I totally wouldn’t recommend this for safety and sanity reasons. Instead, plan your trip so that you arrive or leave Hanoi by train. As we left for Ninh Binh, both kids sat spell-bound at the train window as we pulled out of Hanoi absorbing the cacophony of smells, sights and sounds from all the homes bordering the tracks.
children on train Vietnam

Watching the world go by on the train to Ninh Binh from Hanoi.

  • Research family-friendly hotels. The apartments that we stayed in were poky, noisy and difficult to contain the children in safely. Perhaps splash out on a hotel with a swimming pool for a refreshing interlude after a busy day sightseeing.
  • Give Halong Bay a miss(!!). I adore Halong Bay – it’s beautiful, stunning and awe-inspiring, if a little crowded and polluted nowadays. I would love to go back. Unfortunately, neither of our children can swim. That was the primary reason we gave it a miss. The idea of them wandering around a boat for 24 hours, trying to escape from sweaty, oversized life jackets and throwing tantrums in a tiny, sweat-box cabin was too much for us to contemplate. From experience, the drive to and from Halong Bay is long and arduous. We will happily wait until they are older when we can go kayaking together and I can trust that they won’t just jump off the ship when I’m not looking.
  • The Vietnamese Women’s Museum. Zizi and I loved our visit to this awesome women’s museum. Toddlers will love the Vietnamese fashion displays – colourful and eye-catching as well as the Children’s Discovery Room that has books and resources aimed at young children. There are a few hands-on exhibits and the square in front of the cafe is a great place to run around. Read more about this fantastic women’s museum here.
  • Vietnamese Museum Of Ethnology. This museum comes highly recommended by families with young children. It’s quite far outside town but if you can brave a long taxi journey with your toddlers it’s worth it. Children can clamber in and out of traditional Vietnamese houses and adults can learn about Vietnamese tribes and homes.
  • Ho Tay Lake. If you have time to venture out of the Old Town. Ho Tay is a huge lake (15km in circumference) and at various points around the edge, you’ll find restaurants, cafes and hotels. A great place to stay in Hanoi with a toddler as it is much calmer than the Old Town.
  • Lotte Observation Tower. Most toddlers love taking lifts up to the top of tall buildings – that’s probably their highlight of a visit here to the 65th floor. For adults, the highlight is the view over greater Hanoi. You can really get a sense of perspective and marvel at how quickly the city is expanding. Toddlers love playing count the cranes!

Welcome to the World for a Girl community

Have you been to Hanoi with a toddler? Do you have any family travel tips or advice about travelling to Hanoi with a toddler? We’d love to hear about your family travel experiences in Hanoi with a toddler. Thanks for reading.

Linking up for #fearlessfamtrav by Wandermust Family and TraveLynn Family

19 Comments on “Hanoi with a Toddler: 15 Tips to make it less stressful”

  1. I love your honesty and from a previous visit (pre-kids) I totally agree. Vietnam is such a hot family travel destination and Hanoi will be on so many people’s lists! But it’s so important to be prepared for those roads and lower expectation of what’s possible with energetic toddlers.

    Thanks for linking up to #fearlessfamtrav

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    1. Thank for reading! Glad you found the tips useful. Let me know how your trip to Hanoi with a toddler goes! 🙂

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  8. We LOVE this post. Thank you for reminding us of all that we LOVE about Hanoi and that we are crazy thinking we should spend a week here with our 3 under 5 🙂

    This is the sanity check we needed!

    Looking forward to reading more.

    Lisa and Adam

    @thesmalllane

    1. Lol… Glad to be of help! Hanoi can be tricky with toddlers but it’s still worth it in our opinions. Just schedule from downtime somewhere calm like Ninh Binh as well! Thanks for reading!

  9. Thanks for the blog post, we read your page Hanoi before we went to Vietnam. Just back from Vietnam and four days in Hanoi. We managed well with our 2.5yr old daughter. Our hotel had a pool which meant we could cool off and also escape the hustle and bustle. The Vietnamese are very child friendly, so every cafe and restaurant we were welcomed with open arms. Yes it is hectic and pavements are at a premium, but forewarned is forearmed. Hoan Kiam is a good space to get some running about in and some of the museums meant she could run off some of her energy underneath tanks and up flag towers. The Water Puppet theatre also managed to keep our little one engaged for nearly an hour.

    The railway cafes were good fun and she loved watching the trains rumble past. It’s difficult but not insurmountable and the three of us had a great time. A sense of the real urban Vietnam (as opposed to the overdeveloped and disappointing Nha Trang and crowded Hoi An)

    1. Thank you SO much for not only reading our post but especially for coming back and commenting. THANK YOU! I love your summary forwarned is forearmed – that such a great quote to pass on to parents travelling with toddlers. Yes, Vietnam with little ones can be challenging but it’s totally worth it. Love the tip about the railway cafes too – thanks so much for sharing!

  10. Googled “Hanoi with a toddler” whilst already here…. we have 4 days here. Thanks for the tips! I’ll come back and comment when we’ve come out the other side and hopefully survived with our crazy 3 year old girl. She already received a lot of attention and women keep trying to pick her up which is weird…. We’re also going to Halong Bay – haaaaaa!

    1. So glad that you’re finding the tips useful. Yes, Hanoi is a ‘challenging’ city to visit with a toddler but there are so many great things to visit. I hope you have a great time!

  11. Hi there, thanks so much for all the tips and insights! We have a 6yo and 4yo so the train looks like a good option – how did you book the tickets for that? Pre-book or just on the day? We found it tricky in Thailand to use the websites so if you have one then it would be so helpful! thanks

    1. Sorry for the super late reply. No, we didn’t use a website. We just went a day or two before and bought tickets in person at the train station. We were lucky and it worked out but I guess at busy times of the year or if you’re on a tight schedule this could be tricky. Sorry not to be of more help. Thanks for reading!

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